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So Steve, I thought a lot about this whole problem of anchor chains during my ten years in Mexico. I anchored out constantly and found the chain rusted quickly from sitting in salt in the locker. I also do not want to go to smaller chain with my new boat, as when the wind gets up a bit I don't want to be waltzing all over the Anchorage, as catamarans and those on rope do. The biggest and heaviest chain I see on most boats is 3/8 bbb, but my current boat weighs three times as much as my former boat, the 3/8 chain won't be as much of an advantage, but still some. Now I am rigging a fresh water wash down, which will spray all the chain as it comes aboard. It should not rust as much.

IMO the grapnel anchor is for rocky/reef bottoms. Not sand or mud. We use one on our dinghy but we’ve never “anchored out”. We always beach, so the grapnel works great. Put it behind a rock or a log…and stores very small.

Awesome to see a rig without winches, a back stay, etc.... I just sail a cat rigged dinghy, but it's a sliding gunter from a Herreshoff book. It's unstayed and cuts like a knife upwind.

I have a 35 lb CQR on an 11 ton sailboat. I use the anchor rarely. Again and again i hear negative criticism of the CQR design and how wonderful the modern designs are by comparison. I was sceptical of the criticisms. I am not sceptical now. I shall persevere with the long-serving CQR. Thanks.

Did the fishermen that carried those anchors actually anchor very much?

Keep up the good work Steve..

Takk!

What's the best recommendation for anchor and kg for Bayliner 2655?

hi, can you include an approx 20lb stainless steel mushroom anchor in your test? I have a 33-foot boat and use such an anchor on soft mud. I have to use the boat's engine to loosen it again. hope you make it. big fan of your anchor videos! ⚓️

Quality stuff. Imagine, weighing 20kg anchor then off into a sea with the thing rattling around at the bow. There may be trouble ahead...

The interesting test would be, given a reasonable charged battery how long could it pump without failure. Like in the case when you've neen holed.

Hmm… seems to work very good 👍🏼

I would love to see the inefficiencies that are introduced by that terrible corrigated hose made by Rule quantified. It’s cheap, dangerous, and often seems to be the only hose readily available to fit their pumps. Not in a position to do it myself due to the nature of my bilge ( or at least not easily). Good video thanks.

I have 300 ft of rusty 3/8” chain. This has been a big problem. Thanks for your efforts and excellent video. I’m replacing the chain with less chain and a rope to chain splice. Also a new anchor swivel should help since twisted chain adds to the problem.

Ooops, I pressed a wrong button during my math calculation. Instead of 1800 gallons per hour, the correct result was 2250 gallons per hour.

Nice to see you here

Just a tip for those sinking even with the bilge pumps... run the engine, cut the raw water intake line, close seacock. Engine will pump water out with exhaust. Last thing you do before life boat time.

And you were spilling a lot of water. So from eyeballing, you would be at between 50- to 75 % of capasity. Another instructive video! I have done the same exercise with my boat (one size smaller pump Rule), and similar result.

Nice! And perhaps one of the cleanest bilges I’ve ever seen! I was actually just up until 1 :30 AM last night investigating why my bilge alarm went off. In my boat, the deepest part of the bilge is approximately 12 inches long by 8 inches wide. The rest of the bilge feeds this deep portion through about a half inch hole. Water was fresh. I’ve been running the air conditioner like crazy and I’m wondering if perhaps that was the source. Perhaps the, hot water expansion tank as well? Do you have experience with this?

Great short test! Perhaps you could build a small mesh "fence" around the pump, to act as a coarse filter for loose debris? Maybe 3-4 inches out, so there is plenty of surface area to prevent clogging.

Well done.

Thank you!! You always make so informative Videos!

Wow, Your back Steve! This is what I like with your channel - testing equipment that is really urgent for boating/crusing👌🏼 Now you made me curious to do the same test, but with two different bilge pumps in each hull.

When I need an anchor, I won't go to Rocna for advice, I'll go to Steve Goodwin.

Hi Steve, Really great work! My smallish bow roller will only allow me a55lb anchor if I get the Mantus 2. My 20000lb 36’ sailboat would be okay with a 44lb, but I live aboard and anchor every night. I’m concerned about your veering test and I hope the 55lb will perform better as I do anchor in changing currents and sometimes muddy rivers of the Chesapeake. Any thoughts? I have 150’ of all chain.

impressive!

What size chain is that?

That would be a beast with the proper 3/8 full chain rode. I'm contemplating a replacement for my c34-2 w/33lb Rocna & 225' 3/8 full chain rode

Do we think that a wind that breaks you loose and carries you along at 3kn deserves a 5:1 or 7:1 rode? 130-180' of 3/8 chain may have done the trick

I never brought the mark 1 because i knew the mark 2 was coming out.

I had a 35 lb CQR on a 30k lb 41 ft. sailboat for 29 years. I dragged twice, once when i dropped on a heavy clump of grass at dusk and didn't check to see if it was set (cocktails were probably involved) and once when the tip dropped on a piece of plastic. It may take a few feet of dragging before it sets but with time and a heavy boat tugging slightly it digs deeper and deeper particularly in deep mud. At first in deep mud it "plows" but after a few hours it's in China. An indestructible general purpose anchor. Danforth type fluke anchors are probably better in one direction and go deeper but then become very difficult to break out.

That is just one BS video. Why do this at all?

Great job, great video!

i like that detachable mast ring with cleats on it. Nice video. Nice boat.

22:45 Any value in turning the bolts over so the nut is on the bottom? Or even better, replacing them with coach bolts with the nut on the bottom?

Steve. What about making a hinged anchor extension for mud.

Great vide thanks. We have been using a 16kg Delta for the last 4 years on a 45’ Sun Odyssey. It has been great so far. We have found that regardless of scope, it needs 30m of 10mm chain deployed to get a good initial set. Once you have that you can shorten chain if you feel like you need to. It has held us in a 60-70kts storm for over 2 hours and then in a sustained blow of 30-40 kts for almost 3 days. After that it was buried so deep, the shank being almost a foot below the surface of the sea bed which is predominantly sand as long as you avoid the Posidonia grass. Resetting through 180 turns has been good, normally within 1-1.5 anchor lengths under normal weather shifts.

Thanks for all the effort put into these tests, you’re amazing, literally a full blown research institute. Have you considered testing the Bulwagga? It seems like the perfect candidate for your lineup. Designed by Peter Mele, New York, it received really good reviews and test results but seems to have been discontinued after some years. A European manufacturer has started producing it again, allegedly on popular demand. Alain Poiraud (Spade anchors) wrote favorably about the Bulwagga in his Complete Anchoring Handbook.

Thanks!

Thank you for the test of the Flook! I've been curious about these since I first saw them advertised.

So the helm position was hard to port the entire time at or beyond the slip except at the very end, and the control of turning and position was mostly by fore and aft throttle. Also the throttle movements are relatively large, but brief. Presumably everyone knows, but the way to get good at this is to practice in an open area. Best to do that with any boat, but especially an unfamiliar one (think charter boat).

Thanks again. I would have liked to see fortress with a tandem, in my case a mantis. I think I have to give you a donation. Thanks.

Thanks for that great work. Came in a Knick of time as I am in the process of buying a 33kg Mantis in prep for a cruise from Europe to Australia. It seems the best twin anchor combination to have aboard includes a Fortress.

Great information. Thank you

why 180 rotations? why not 50?

My approach is very simple: chain you have in your boat doesn‘t help but chain on the bottom of the sea does. So if space allows I always put out generous 5:1 till 17m depth, that’s what my total 85m chain length supports, from then on I shackle in a 18kg anchor weight after about 40m which keeps the angle on the anchor shank lower and I feel safe till 1:3 till around 27m of depth. The anchor weight in the middle of the chain also provides additional damping due to enlarging the catany of the chain. Have a cat and my bridle contains rubber dampers to further enlarge damping and also less stress on the attachment points of the bridle. The gypsy of my lofrans windlass doesn‘t support rope and there is none available for 10mm DIN chain that would support rope so that’s the best I can do.

@sv panope how much holding power do you estimate the fortress fx85 has?? 5k-10 thousand pounds???

That mainsail is freakishly freaking huge, looks like the spanker off a couple hundred ton full rigged ship.

Good thing this video popped up number 1 for kayak anchors where I'm definitely not using a motor while anchored. Let alone paddling while anchored. If anyone watching is looking for a kayak anchor the mushroom works just fine. Remember your anchoring and not pulling away from the anchor

John, could you do a review of anchoring in preparation of bad weather? Two anchors off the bow at °360 veering and straight line prose and cons?